Citizen NP3010-00A

Se é verdade que existe uma variação quase ilimitada de relógios, o mesmo não é verdade no que diz respeito aos movimentos, que mecânicos, quer de quartzo.
Acontece porém que o mesmo movimento pode ser usado para criar relógios completamente diferentes.
Não tenho a certeza absoluta se este Citizen NP3010-00A utiliza o mesmo movimento automático do Techné GosHawk, mas se não é o mesmo (a data não está na mesma posição), o conceito é semelhante: um relógio com data e segundo mostrador de 24 horas às 6 horas.
Só que enquanto o Techné é um relógio tipo piloto, este é um belíssimo dress watch. A caixa mede 43mm de diâmetro e o relógio possui vidro de safira, bem como vidro traseiro para exibição do movimento e é à prova de água até 100 metros. Existe também uma versão com o mostrador em preto, mas gosto sobretudo desta conjugação em branco com bracelete em pele castanha.
O preço, aqui, é de €116, um valor que torna este relógio numa excelente compra. O relógio pode ser visto em mais detalhe aqui.

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Dicionário de Relojoaria – Alternância

A partir de hoje irei publicar todos os fins-de-semana o significado de um termo de relojoaria.

A explicação é retirada do Dicionário de Relojoaria, de Fernando Correia de Oliveira, com a autorização do autor.

A ideia não é publicar aqui o conteúdo total do Dicionário em fascículos, mas sim selecionar alguns dos termos que considero mais interessantes e/ou sobre os quais poderão existir mais dúvidas.

De acordo com o Dicionário de Relojoaria, alternância é «o tempo que leva um pêndulo ou outro órgão oscilatório, como o balanço, entre duas posições extremas consecutivas. Se um pêndulo bate ao segundo, efetua uma alternância por segundo. O balanço de um relógio costuma fazer 5 alternância por segundo, ou seja, 18.000 por hora. Uma oscilação consta de duas alternâncias, é o tic-tac.

Geralmente, até mesmo os relojoeiros confundem os dois termos, empregando “oscilação” quando querem dizer “alternância”. Quanto maior for a alternância de um relógio, mais exato ele se torna. Mas há limites, especialmente pelo desgaste provocado às peças móveis como o balanço, a espiral e o escape.

Os relógios despertadores têm, geralmente, mecanismos com 12.000 alternâncias por hora, os cronómetros de marinha 14.400, um relógio de bolso patente Roskopf 17.280, um relógio de bolso normal até 19.800, os relógios de pulso 21.600 e os cronógrafos 36.000. De notar ainda que o número de oscilações por segundo medido em Hertz constitui a frequência. A 21.600 Alternâncias/Hora correspondem 3 Hz, a 28.800 A/H correspondem 4 Hz e a 36.000 A/H (o máximo geralmente usado) correspondem 5 Hz.»

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Christopher Ward C3 Malvern Chronograph MkII

Os leitores deste blog sabem o quanto eu gosto da Christopher Ward, provavelmente uma das marca mais referenciadas por aqui. Infelizmente, a (merecida) fama que ganhou teve como efeito um ligeiro subir dos preços, ajudado ainda mais pelo câmbio da Libra face ao Euro, que torna os modelos da marca inglesa um pouco menos competitivos do que seria desejável.

No entanto, ainda encontramos pelo website da marca – única forma de adquirir um CW – muitos modelos Bons, Bonitos e Baratos. É certamente o caso deste cronógrafo da gama C3 Malvern. Existe, à data em que escreve estas linhas, um total de 17 (!) variantes nesta gama das quais este, com a referência C3SWT-MK2, é uma das que mais me agrada.

Estes cronógrafos com caixa em aço de 39mm (o que se pode considerar já quase como “pequeno”…) ficam igualmente à vontade como dress watches tal é a sua elegância e desenho clássico intemporal.

O movimento usado é, como em todos os modelos da marca, suíço. Neste caso trata-se de um Ronda 5040.D de quartzo, com data às 4h00.

A execução é muito cuidada, como é habitual na CW, incluindo mostrador protegido com vidro de safira, fundo roscado e coroa de rosca (muito embora a resistência à água indicada não ultrapasse 5 ATM/50 metros). Gosto sobretudo dos poussoirs retangulares… Infelizmente, a bracelete em pele castanha tem uma fivela convencional e não os belos fechos tipo borboleta presentes noutros modelos da marca.

O preço são umas razoáveis 250 libras + portes de envio.

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Vostok Europe Lazar Angelov

A Vostok Europe tem uma abordagem interessante na forma como cria as suas coleções. De forma a otimizar os custos de industrialização, lança normalmente cada coleção em duas ou três declinações a partir da mesma caixa e estrutura básicas: mecânico automático (normalmente usando o movimento Seiko NH-35A) e cronógrafo (com base em movimentos Citizen/Miyota). Nalguns casos acrescenta versões multifuncionais (caso das gamas Lunokhod-2 e Mriya, com movimentos Soprod e ISA Swiss, respetivamente).

Além disso, tem vindo a criar edições especiais interessantes, até porque algumas não se limitam às habituais alterações estéticas, com a empresa lituana a optar por uma abordagem "mix-and-mtach" e usando movimentos e caixas em combinações menos usuais.

É o caso desta edição especial Lazar Angelov, o "deus" búlgaro do fitness, com mais de 12 milhões de seguidores no Facebook. Este cronógrafo com acabamento em PVD negro parte da grande caixa de 49mm, estanque a 300 metros e com válvula de hélio, usada no Lunokhod-2, mas em vez do movimento cronógrafo 6S30 usado nos cronógrafos naquela gama, optou por um mais elegante e sóbrio 6S21 de dois sub-mostradores, que a marca começou por usar na sua gama Expedition-2.

O resultado final é muito bonito, complementado por índices e ponteiros iluminados através de tubos de trítio. O relógio, que tem uma edição limitada a 500 unidades, é vendido numa "dry box" com duas braceletes, ferramenta para a sua substituição e uma foto assinada por Lazar Angelov. O PVP sugerido é de 849€. Mais informações aqui.

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Engagement Watches: Unique or Common?

June is considered as a perfect month to get married. When you say engagement, what’s the first thing that comes to your mind to give out your love one? Is it a ring, a necklace, bracelet, or an anklet? Have you thought of giving out a watch as your engagement gift? Does it sound weird?

This would probably be the most uncommon engagement gift in the whole world. People don’t give out a watch when they propose to their girlfriends or boyfriends. They give out the common jewelries. But what I encourage you to do is give something that will symbolize your love for each other and at the same time will be helpful for the both of you. Watches are really useful because it keeps you track of the time. But it can also be a symbol of your love. Don’t limit a watch as a necessity or jewelry. It can be both at the same time.

Engagement Watches: Is it considered unique? For a start, I haven’t encountered someone who gave a watch to his girlfriend as an engagement gift. But being unique is not bad! Sometimes, you will realize that being totally different from others is cool. Soon enough you realize that everyone imitates you.

You are different because you don’t think the same with other people with regards of giving out a watch as an engagement present. A watch is not an uncommon possession, and watches are very useful.

Some people might think that as long as they’re giving out a jewelry as an engagement gift, then that’s fine. But for some women, the type of jewelry you’ll give them still matters. Giving them out an engagement watch will not only be special but also useful. They will be wearing it for all times and they will be proud of it because you’re the one who gave that to her, not just a gift, but as an engagement gift. Isn’t that priceless?

If you’re worried about the cost of the watch, then let me tell you that watches are cheaper than the engagement rings you’re giving. You can also engrave your names on it or buy a custom made.

They say that June is the perfect time to get married. You get to have beautiful weather, nice places, and astonishing views. If you really want everything to be memorable, then start off with your engagement. Make it special and everything will be meaningful.

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Der Adam Westen von Armbanduhren!

Biff! Sok! Blap! Kapow !!!

Es ist hier! The Caped Crusader, The Dark Knight, Der Held, den dein Handgelenk verdient (auch der, den es gerade braucht)! Ich spreche natürlich über den BATMAN GMT Master II, eine Uhr, die absolut keine Einführung braucht, aber schau mir zu, wie ich es schaffe. Es beginnt natürlich mit dem GMT Master. Diese Uhr wurde als erste Fliegeruhr entworfen und ist bei Fliegern und Reisenden immer noch sehr beliebt. Ursprünglich wurde es für die Crews von Pan-Am Airways für Querflüge zur Verfügung gestellt, aber der Kapitän war so ikonisch, dass er die Fluggesellschaft selbst überlebte. In den 1980er Jahren wurde der Master II eingeführt, wobei das frühere Design verbessert und den Gleichungen eine Goldoption hinzugefügt wurde. 2005 gab uns eine Jubiläumsausgabe, und alles schien gut, bis im Jahr 2013 eine dunkle Wolke über die Marke Rolex geworfen wurde und der Caped Crusader aus den Schatten sprang! Die zweifarbige blaue und schwarze Lünette scheint eine kleine Änderung im großen Schema der Geschichte des Master II zu sein. Es ist unmöglich zu überschätzen, wie sehr Rolex-Fans von dieser einfachen Veränderung fasziniert sind. Ein Blick wird Ihnen sagen warum; Diese Uhr hat eine Tonne Persönlichkeit, die Lünette irgendwie sowohl finster und bunt, und immer noch elegant genug, um mit formellen Kleidung zu entsprechen. Stilistisch kann diese Uhr alles, und im Gegensatz zu Bruce Wayne Cape und Spandex können Sie es überall tragen.

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The Watch War: Apple's New Smart Watch vs. Centuries of Tradition

Last week, Apple officially unveiled its new Apple Watch – though it won’t be available for sale until next year. The watch caused quite a stir, so we feel it is important to discuss this newest “smart watch.” We also feel it is important to put the category of smart watches into proper horological context. After all, it may not be a battle of Swiss fine timepieces vs. Smart Watches; it may be a blend.



Granted, Smart Watches are not a new concept – they’ve been around and some have even sold. The Apple Watch, though, is supposed to be more revolutionary in the “smart” sense. Expected to retail at the approximate $349 range (though there will be an 18-karat gold version), the watch offers a significant amount of function. Unfortunately, while it may offer wearable technology, it does not offer a great deal in the way of elegance. It is, however – depending on your taste level – high-tech looking in a fashionable sort of way that may have a Wall Street type wearing the watch as his weekend gadget. (Rumor has it a watch design expert was called in on the streamlining of the design.)

The screen (on most watches, the dial) is curved so it flows nicely into the bezel and cushion-cornered rectangular case. The Apple Watch will be available in two sizes: 38 mm and 42 mm. Additionally, it will have a vast array of colorful and neutral straps to choose from, as well as a great Milanese mesh bracelet and a link bracelet. It will also come with a variety of “screen” images.



The Apple Watch is designed to work in tandem with a newer iPhone, and may need to be charged daily. Among the myriad of features the watch offers – in addition to time telling, of course – are things such as a health app, the ability to tweet, post to Facebook, get directions, check you stocks and check emails.

The up side to this: people are free of their phones and need only glance at the wrist to see that an email has come in. The downside: are you really going to be able to answer that email on your wrist? Additionally, the small screen is not optimum for the host of apps you need to install, use or read. Another up side: kids in the 16-to-20-something age group may be attracted to the product — getting them into the mode of wearing a watch at a younger age. This could translate down the road to more people wearing watches and learning to admire the classic timepiece.

Will the new era of Smart Watches ruin the world of horology? Doubtful. While the watch may offer high-tech functions and features (and elegance in its gold versions), it simply does not have the tradition of a hand-made timepiece with hundreds of tiny hand-finished components serving as the heart – and soul – of a watch. Yes, Apple will sell tens of thousands of the watch when it comes out – that’s what Apple does best. It markets, it sells and it delivers a good product. But it can’t strip away centuries of tradition, and it won’t usurp the watch lovers and collectors who still want to see/hear/feel the tick of time.

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Summer Sports Review: How IWC Sailed Into the Sunset

Summer Sports Review: How IWC Sailed Into the Sunset

Earlier this summer, IWC continued its participation in the all-important around-the-world Volvo Ocean Race (2014-2015), and the brand sailed to success with the Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing victory. IWC is a partner and Official Timekeeper of the race and also sponsors the Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing team (ADOR), led by Skipper and two-time Olympic silver medalist, Ian Walker. ADOR was the overall victor — declared at the final destination in Sweden.



The sailing race, one of the toughest in the world, took the teams on a nine-month, 72,000-kilometer journey to seven continents, where they made stopovers in Cape Town (South Africa), Abu Dhabi (UAE), Sanya (China), Auckland (New Zealand), Itajaí (Brazil), Newport (USA), Lisbon (Portugal), Lorient (France) and a pit stop in The Hague (The Netherlands) before finishing in Gothenburg (Sweden).

As sponsor of the IWC 24-Hour Speed Record Challenge, IWC Schaffhausen presented every member of the ADOR crew with a Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph “Ocean Racer” (Ref. IW390216), a watch dedicated to the spirit of the sailing. The winning team covered a distance of 550.8 nautical miles in 24 hours – the best performance over the course of the entire race.



The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Ocean Racer is part of the brand's all-important Portugieser line, one of the brand's most robust and alluring collections. This watch has a diameter of 45.4 millimeters and is powered by the IWC-manufactured 89361-calibre movement. The self-winding chronograph features a flyback function and aggregate timing of up to 12 hours, shown by an analog display with two hands in a subdial. Just 1,000 pieces of this watch will be made. But fear not, we have many IWC Portugieser watches on hand to show you. Stop in any time — especially before your next sailing adventure.

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Panerai Unveils New Luminor 1950 Military Tribute Watch

Known for its marine-inspired past and for supporting so many classic yacht races around the world, Officine Panerai unveils an all-new Luminor 1950 3 Days Acciaio - 47mm Marine Militare watch. In fact, the "Marine Miitare" words are engraved on the black dial of the special-edition watch.

The new timepiece recalls the precision instrument Panerai watches used for special military missions in the 1940s. The new watch, created in a limited edition of 1000 pieces is distinguished by its pure lines and highly readable dial. It offers three days of power reserve and its use of Grade A Super-LumiNova® on the dial makes night visibility a snap.



The 47mm case is crafted of AISI 316L stainless steel with a polished finish and has the same proportions as the watch created by Panerai in the late 1940s. Like the vintage models, which had crystals made of polymethyl methacrylate, the dial of the new Luminor is protected by a slightly domed Plexiglas® crystal. The back features a sapphire glass porthole for viewing the P.3000 hand-wound mechanical calibre.

The watch is finished with a brown Ponte Vecchio strap, which is crafted and treated in traditional Tuscan leather workshops. The strap is imprinted with the OP logo and sports contrasting beige stitching. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters. We invite you in to see our vast collection of Panerai watches.

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Bürger Vagary CE90

Heute bin ich in einer kleinen Besprechung, wollte also eine Uhr, die ziemlich schlau aussieht, aber immer noch etwas schrullig ist.

Die Uhr, die ich ausgewählt habe, ist eine der Uhren aus der Citizen Vagary Linie. Die Vagary-Linie gehört Citizen Italien und ist kein japanisches Modell. Die Uhren scheinen bei Einzelhändlern in Italien verkauft zu werden, aber die Mehrheit der Uhren, die ich gesehen habe, werden in Japan als Übersee-Modelle verkauft.

Diese Uhr ist eine Quarz-Analoguhr, die ein ungewöhnliches Design mit einer dezenten Drehung auf dem Display hat.

Es gibt viele analoge Uhren in diesem Blog, wo es eine Chronographenfunktion gibt, und die Uhren haben 3 kleine Zifferblätter auf dem Gesicht für Stunden, Minuten und Sekunden. Dieser Entwurf hat die 3 kleinen Kreise auf dem Gesicht, aber dieses Mal sind sie LCD-Verkleidungen und nicht Vorwahlknöpfe. Jedes LCD-Display hat 2 Ziffern in Silber auf weißem Hintergrund und kann in verschiedenen Anzeigemodi verwendet werden. Das LCD kann Uhrzeit, Datum und Alarm sowie die erwartete Chronographenfunktion abdecken.

Die Tastenanordnung ist ebenfalls etwas anders, wobei die obere linke Taste die Modusauswahl (und nicht die linke untere) abdeckt. Um die Digitalanzeige einzustellen, halten Sie die untere linke Taste gedrückt, bis die Sekunden blinken, und dieselbe Taste wählt, welche Nummern geändert werden sollen (mit der rechten unteren Taste), während eine Krone zum Einstellen der analogen Anzeige vorhanden ist.

Das Gesicht der Uhr ist sehr bunt, aber in kleinen Spritzer. Die Stunden- und Minuten-LCD-Anzeigen sind von einem roten Ring umgeben, während der Ring um die Sekunden gelb ist. Nur die Zahlen 4, 8 und 12 befinden sich auf dem Zifferblatt und sind blau umrandet, und der Sekundenzeiger ist grün.

Die CE90 Vagary Modelle scheinen ziemlich ungewöhnlich zu sein, da ich nur zwei Referenzen gefunden habe, beides japanische Auktionen.

Die vollständige Modellnummer lautet CE90-S043573, aber leider gibt es keine Seriennummer, um mir eine Vorstellung vom Datum zu geben. Da es keine Informationen gibt, würde der allgemeine Zustand und das Design mir nahe legen, dass es aus den späten 00er Jahren stammt. Die einzige andere Information auf der Uhr ist, dass es alles Edelstahl ist, ein japanisches Uhrwerk hat und wasserdicht ist.


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Totmann-Totenkopfuhr GV 6674

Ich gehe heute Abend zu einer späten Halloween-Party, wollte also eine Uhr mit einem Horror-Thema haben, und diese Deadman-Uhr schien perfekt zu sein.

Die Marke Deadman (oder Dead Man) ist eine meiner Lieblingsuhren, die aber online relativ unbekannt ist. Sie sind eine Mode-Marke, die in den späten 90ern herum war und eine große Auswahl an verschiedenen Designs anfertigte, aber ich weiß nicht, wie lange sie aktiv waren. Einige der verwendeten Designs wurden auch von anderen Marken verwendet, so dass es nur ein Geheimnis ist.

Dieses Modell ist das GV 6674 (vielleicht GV6674) und hat die bisher ungewöhnlichste Gehäuseform. Das Design scheint ein fremder Schädel mit einer großen Stirn zu sein, auf der das Gesicht sitzt, mit den Augen und dem lächelnden Mund darunter. Das Uhrenteil ist ein Quartz-Analog-3-Hand-Zifferblatt-Design, ohne Zahlen, nur Marker in den 3, 6, 9 und 12 Uhr-Positionen. Der Deadman Name ist auf dem Gesicht, der Rückplatte und auch auf dem Verschluss des zusammenpassenden Metallbügels.

Eine weitere mysteriöse Sache bei diesem Design war, dass ich eines Tages auch einen Stoff-Aufnäher mit einer ähnlichen Alienschädelform fand, aber mit einem Yin & Yang-Symbol, wo die Uhr steht, und sie hieß auch Deadman ...


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